Italy's food culture close to UNESCO nod

Italy is awaiting a ruling from UNESCO that could officially place its cuisine on the Intangible Cultural Heritage list, a recognition that would highlight the nation’s centuries-old culinary traditions. A final decision is expected on Wednesday (10 December).

The Intergovernmental Committee is meeting in New Delhi to decide whether Italy’s bid, strongly supported by the country’s culture and agriculture ministries, will succeed.

The proposal argues that Italy’s iconic dishes—from pasta and pizza to ossobuco and orecchiette—are more than just food. They represent a social ritual passed down through generations, forming an integral part of the country’s cultural identity.

Industry groups estimate UNESCO recognition could boost tourism by up to 8% in two years, adding 18 million overnight stays. Italian cuisine also connects 59 million residents with up to 85 million people of Italian descent worldwide.

Globally, the Italian food service market hit €251 billion ($293 billion) in 2024, or 19% of the global restaurant market, Deloitte said. But imitation products abroad cost Italy an estimated €120 billion annually.

In central Rome, the importance of preserving these traditions is important at ‘Le Cave di Sant’Ignazio – Da Sabatino’, a family-run restaurant now in its fourth generation. Owner Luigina Pantalone says the restaurant has maintained its character over decades, offering diners both continuity and a sense of home.

“So, this is a family restaurant. We are now in our fourth generation and it is family-run. We don't change because people like to feel at home, they like the contact with us and I have to say that this gives us enormous satisfaction,” Pantalone said.

Customers echo that sentiment, praising the consistency and authenticity of the dishes. Regular Marco Cesario highlighted the restaurant’s signature carbonara, describing it as “prepared to perfection, fully respecting the tradition of Roman cuisine.”

However, not everyone in Italy supports the bid to join UNESCO lists, which already feature almost 800 items including Italian opera singing and truffle hunting.

Alberto Grandi, a food historian, called the UNESCO candidacy "just a marketing operation" in an interview with website Mantovauno last month.

In his 2024 book 'La cucina italiana non esiste' ('Italian cuisine doesn't exist'), Grandi argued that many dishes considered traditional, including pasta alla carbonara, are relatively modern inventions influenced by foreign cultures.

Grandi's remarks have sparked a backlash from farmers' association Coldiretti, which called his claims "surreal attacks on national culinary tradition."

The UNESCO bid carries significance beyond individual restaurants. Pantalone notes that authentic Italian cooking faces growing pressure from imitation and global competition, with traditional recipes and ingredients increasingly at risk. Formal recognition would provide a framework to protect these culinary practices for future generations.

For restaurateurs such as Luigina Pantalone, owner of Rome's historic Da Sabatino, a UNESCO nod from Wednesday's meeting in India would be a source of pride.

"Authentic Italian cuisine needs to be protected," she said, recalling childhood days washing dishes with her brothers and proudly noting that she is the fourth generation of her family to run the restaurant.

Three-Michelin-star chef Massimo Bottura summed it up. "Italian cuisine is an ancient, daily, sacred ritual – the art of caring and loving without saying a word."

A successful listing would place Italian cuisine alongside France’s festive meals, Mexico’s ceremonial dishes, and Japan’s Washoku, recognising Italy’s food as part of humanity’s shared cultural heritage. For Rome’s restaurateurs and Italy’s cultural institutions alike, the decision represents both a matter of national pride and a safeguard for a treasured way of life.

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