Kyrgyzstan has introduced mandatory permits for climbers attempting Victory Peak, imposing stricter safety and experience requirements following a series of fatal accidents on one of the world’s most dangerous mountains.
The new rules, announced by the State Agency for Tourism Development, are already in force and require all climbers to obtain official authorisation before attempting the 7,439-metre ascent of Victory Peak, the highest summit in the Tian Shan mountain range.
The agency has not said whether the permits will be issued free of charge.
Under the new system, permits will only be granted to climbers with proven high-altitude mountaineering experience, appropriate training and insurance that includes helicopter evacuation cover.
Authorities expect to issue permits to around 20 highly qualified climbers during the programme’s initial phase.
The decision follows a series of fatal incidents in the upper Tian Shan and growing concerns over the safety of expeditions on Victory Peak.
The dangers of climbing the mountain came into sharp focus last year following the death of Russian mountaineer Natalia Nagovitsina.
Nagovitsina began her ascent on 12 August 2025 as part of a climbing team but broke her leg after reaching the summit, leaving her unable to descend without assistance.
After administering first aid, her climbing partner was forced to continue down the mountain to seek help. The following day, climbers from Italy and Germany reached her, bringing a sleeping bag, stove, food and a gas canister.
During the rescue attempt, Italian mountaineer Luca Sinigaglia died from frostbite.
Efforts to evacuate Nagovitsina ultimately proved unsuccessful.
On 16 August, a helicopter operated by Kyrgyzstan’s Ministry of Defence made a hard landing, injuring two people involved in the rescue operation. Worsening weather conditions then forced the mission to be suspended.
A week later, the Ministry of Emergency Situations said it believed Nagovitsina had died. She was officially declared missing on 27 August, and the rescue operation was formally ended in early September.
The tragedy came four years after Nagovitsina’s husband also died on Victory Peak in 2021.
Standing at 7,439 metres, Victory Peak is widely regarded as one of the world’s most difficult mountains to climb.
Extreme weather, high altitude and a technically demanding route test even the most experienced mountaineers. According to available data, more than 80 climbers have died on the mountain since ascents began.
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