French department store BHV and online fast-fashion retailer Shein have ended their partnership, seven months after the launch of a permanent Shein shop in Paris triggered controversy and widespread criticism.
The opening of Shein’s first permanent physical store inside BHV’s flagship location in November had already sparked backlash over its fast-fashion model, environmental concerns, and allegations linked to controversial products sold online.
Societe des Grands Magasins (SGM), which has operated the landmark BHV store opposite Paris City Hall since 2023, has sold it at a loss to a group of executives, including outgoing CEO Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, according to both parties.
Cottendin, who will step down following the deal, said Shein would “ideally” leave the store by Christmas and described the decision to bring the retailer in as a “strategic error.”
The partnership had already triggered protests, brand boycotts, and regulatory scrutiny, with around 100 brands leaving the department store due to the collaboration or related disputes over payments and operations.
Shein said the deal with SGM was always intended to be temporary and that it respects the decision, while expressing regret over disruption caused by ongoing construction works in the store.
Customers who queued for the opening reportedly expressed disappointment, saying prices inside the store were significantly higher than on Shein’s online platform, known for ultra-low-cost items such as $5 dresses and $10 jeans.
SGM had already been under financial pressure before the partnership, including delays in payments to suppliers, and the Shein launch further accelerated brand departures from the department store in protest.
Founded in China and now based in Singapore, Shein has faced repeated international criticism over labour practices, environmental concerns, and product compliance issues, along with more than €22 million in fines from French authorities for traceability and labelling violations.
The company also came under renewed scrutiny in November after French authorities condemned listings of childlike sex dolls on its platform, which were later removed and banned globally.
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